鮨二七2017年再訪:今不如昔 - 高雄
By Blanche
at 2017-08-10T22:30
at 2017-08-10T22:30
Table of Contents
圖文:
http://kuni.pixnet.net/blog/post/459986820
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鮨二七
地址:高雄市苓雅區永明街27號
電話:(07)211-9262
時間:11:30~14:30 17:30-21:30 Wed~Mon
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隔了將近五年終於有機會回訪鮨二七。
難得南下到高雄,臨行前特地訂了位,
另外帶一支很愛的純米大吟釀"我山莊"。
晚間Omakase(NT.3500)
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秋葵冷湯
本鮪中腹握
真鯛背肉與腹肉
比目魚握/鰭邊刺身
微炙石垣貝
山藥豆腐佐利尻馬糞海膽
北寄貝握
香魚甘露煮
北海道扇貝
竹莢握
東港太刀(白帶)
日本小獅魚
烤太刀
本鮪大腹握
金目鯛握
墨魚握
利尻馬糞海膽握
小肌握
星鰻握
玉子燒
黑糖奶酪
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老實說,此行不算滿意,
或應該說與多年前的首訪相較下有落差。
好比起初的秋葵冷湯令人不知所云,
不若2012時負責開場的大根煮成功適度暖胃。
其他握壽司部分除本鮪外基本上大多不對味,
這部分倒是值得一提。
個人吃日式板前向來首重鮪魚!
對我來說,一家高級壽司料亭不論生熟食多麼強大,
若沒有好鮪魚就無法稱之為頂尖。
這次小任的兩貫本鮪不但型美,醋飯比例也比五年前好。
依舊全程使用紅醋飯,酸度突出,與本鮪肉質天作之和。
也就是說,小任的鮪魚實力這幾年又精進了。
但問題也在於此,鮪魚之外的菜色幾乎完全不okay,
尤其是以3500的Omakase來論。
好比魚生與醋飯不合,或口感與外型缺了細緻等。
小任師傅在日料界向來以不計成本敢花錢著稱,
所以魚料品質與等級能與北市名店們一較高下,
但那是五年前。
這幾年北市高級日料因競爭激烈,整體水準早已今非昔比,
不論技術或生熟食的掌控都是如今鮨二七所不及。
好比食材的契合度,今晚的海膽山藥豆腐各說各話,
或烤物,這次烤太刀的火候欠佳調味也無趣。
小肌除稍微乾柴外,最意外的是竟然還吃到刺,
是備料上極大的失誤。
完食後落寞走去結帳,
與好友道別後帶著詫異的心得乘高鐵回到台北。
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