無盡的黑油 - 閒聊
By Olivia
at 2014-12-07T18:56
at 2014-12-07T18:56
Table of Contents
選舉完了。這段時間沒人在討論黑心油的問題,彷彿台灣的油品已經沒問題了。
我老公問我︰他的努力是否白費了?是不是該放棄了?
我還是一樣…沒有答案。
種種管道他大概都試過,但是效果總是不盡如人意。
我現在能夠為他做的就是把能夠理解的部分告訴大家。
我先講結論︰目前的體制和主管機關不改,台灣油品的問題就不可能有安全的一
天。食安法怎麼修不是重點,不要說把人關到死,就算修成只要一抓到做黑心油
就滿門抄斬一樣沒有意義,因為被抓的機率幾乎是零!
你沒看錯。被抓的機率就是"零"。
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油脂問題可以說很難理解,但是也可以說很容易理解。
台灣的油脂問題真正的根源在於自有油源不足。
所謂自有油源是什麼意思?大家應該都聽過糧食自給率,台灣是個糧食自給不足
的國家。若是用熱量計算,台灣的糧食自給率只有30%左右,而油籽的自給率更
是離譜到不足4%。
也就是說我們的油脂不是進口油籽自榨,就是進口榨好的油(不論粗油精煉油)。
我們先不談其他油,我們先談豬油。
台灣的豬油需求量根據經濟部的統計大約一年是四萬公噸。
可是我們一年不過屠宰850萬頭豬。一頭豬真正可以煉出上等豬油的部分只有板
油和背脊油,這兩個不會超過2公斤。
就算我們把屠宰量算成900萬頭,榨取的產率算為100%,也不過只有1.8萬公噸
的豬油可用。也就是尚缺2.2萬公噸。
這個缺口要怎麼樣填補?方法其中之一就是把其他的碎油拿去提煉,但是量還是
不足就是靠進口。
我們先離題一下。我們都講豬油,彷彿豬油是什麼是很簡單的問題。然而這個問
題一點也不簡單。
豬油在台灣的CNS分成兩種。
一種是CNS號列2421的「食用豬脂」。英文是Edible lard。
一種是CNS號列8155是「食用熬製豬脂」。英文是Edible rendered pork fat。
為什麼分成兩種?因為他的來源不同!
所謂「食用豬脂」,定義是「本品以經過有關單位認可健康無病之豬屠體之豬脂
肪組織熬製而成之豬脂,組織不包括骨頭、皮、耳、尾、器官與血管等部位。
所謂「食用熬製豬脂」定義是「本品以經過有關單位認可健康無病之豬屠體,採
取其組織與骨頭、皮、耳、尾、器官與血管等部位熬製而成之豬脂產品。」
簡單來說「食用豬脂」的要求比「食用熬製豬脂」更嚴格。
如果有仔細看文章。我之前提過的板油和背脊油(2公斤)就是「食用豬脂」的原料。
台灣的CNS是根據FAO(聯合國農糧組織)的CODEX所訂立出來的︰
http://www.fao.org/docrep/004/y2774e/y2774e05.htm
有沒有發現人家的Rendered pork fat並沒有把在Lard排除的「器官」與「血管」放
進來?
有人(比如農委會)會講說那是外國人不吃內臟,所以才說內臟不可以煉油。
這種說法乍聽之下有道理,但是根本是胡扯。為什麼?
有沒有注意到不論是那一種豬油在煉製時都必須把肌肉盡量分離?
試問新鮮的豬肉能不能吃?當然可以。那麼為何要把肌肉分離清楚?
那是因為肌肉含有蛋白質,加熱蛋白質會產生梅納反應,可能會生成有害物質。這
才是內臟(含蛋白質)和血管(含血)不能煉油的真正原因!
所以我們的CNS已經比CODEX寬鬆,而CODEX通常是最低標準,這也就是說我們的標準
已經比其他國家更鬆。
事實上我們的鄰國日本和中國不僅不允許內臟和血管煉油(這兩國也吃內臟),甚至根
本不准食用食用熬製豬脂。
日本的農林水產省的標準只有Lard。沒有Rendered pork fat的對應標準。
http://www.jlba.or.jp/con08_3.html
日本的飼料公會也講得很清楚︰
この他に食肉加工業では、骨や内臓などの不可食部位が発生しますが、これらはまとめ
て熱処理によって、油脂と固形分(蛋白とカルシウムなど)が生産されます。油脂は石
けんなどの工業用と家畜の飼料に利用され、固形分は肥料や飼料に利用できます。
簡單來說,我們的「食用熬製豬脂」在日本只能工業和飼料用。
你上中國的中國國家標準化管理委員會去查Rendered pork fat只會查到標準號是
GB/T 8935-2006︰Rendered pork fat for industrial,中文叫工業用豬油。他的來源
包括︰
工業用豬脂的原料包括來自骨骼、豬皮、頭皮、耳朵、尾巴、內臟以及其他各種含脂組
織。
所以在中國和日本只能工業和飼料用的"豬油",在台灣是可以合法食用的!
在CNS開一道門也就算了,我們的食藥署在海關的報驗標準是什麼?
答案是"食用油脂類衛生標準"︰
https://consumer.fda.gov.tw/Law/Detail.aspx?nodeID=518&lawid=123
其他酸價(酸價已經很容易造假了)等等一概不查。
試問按照這個標準,假使油是皮革工業油,能不能驗出來?
答案是︰不行!因為皮革油含鉻,鉻不檢驗!
假使是回鍋油,甚至是腐爛的魚油,能不能驗出來?
答案是︰不行!除非你炸油的鍋子是核子反應爐,不然如果本來的油不含銅汞砷鉛,
就算一直炸、一直炸、一直炸,也不可能生成銅汞砷鉛!
你會問強冠和頂新不是有驗鉻、苯駢芘…
那是因為他們的上游被懷疑有問題,所以才會做比較多檢驗。
南僑當時用工業油報關,後來抽驗也是只驗四種重金屬和芥酸!
有沒有發現所謂的報驗和行政院版的監督條例有異曲同工之妙?
為何CNS規定那麼多,可是食藥署檢驗那麼少?
因為CNS是經濟部標檢局定的,可是食藥署才是真正的主管機關,CNS對他們來說
只是"參考"。
你會問那我們可以從上游追啊…
這個就留待之後回答…
--
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