Re: Table Saw - Rigid TS2400 - 木工

※ 引述《korn5 (綠地公園)》之銘言：
: 經由moonshade大的介紹，跟南方工具聯絡
: 他們可以弄到Rigid TS2400，一台17000。
: 說BOSCH的都被大司訂走了....
: 其實我的力山已經賣掉了，小賠一點，因為買得很便宜(6750)
: 正在研究這台，評價好像還不錯
: http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=875.0
: 與BOSCH的比較
: 有人用過或研究過Rigid這台嗎？
: 我需要小聲一點點的噴射機....XDD


剛剛看了一下finewoodworking 的user review

似乎準頭很容易跑掉，要常常調整的樣子

bosch的review 似乎都不錯，不過好像Ridgid 的review比較多

posted by: Jon H.
04/09/08 4:25 PM
Rating 3 Stars

I've had my TS2400 for almost 2 years now. It's been a hate-love-hate
relationship.

The first month or two were frustrating. I had a hard time getting a square
cut (edge perpendicular to the face) and boards tended to wander away from
the fence. Since this was my first table saw ever, I figured it was me.
Eventually I discovered that the heads on the bolts connecting the rip fence
to it's rail-guide were sitting proud of the table. This caused boards to tip
and drift. A quick trip to HD to get bolts with lower profile heads cured the
problem.

Once that issue was corrected, I fell in love with the saw. I immediately
upgraded the blade to a high-end Freud. The portability and collapsible stand
are awesome. The fence is great, especially the t-slots on the sides and top.
The cut quality was very nice and smooth.

A couple months ago, the love affair ended. I ripped some boards to glue-up
panels. I had a bear of a time getting the glue edges to line up. If I laid
the panels flat, the joint was tight on one side, but had a gap on the other.
The edges were not perpendicular to the faces again.

I rechecked the rip fence bolts, and they were still ok. Checked the blade to
make sure it was perpendicular to the table, and it was not. Ok, it had
drifted off it's setting. Reset it to perpendicular and re-rip the boards.

After a 6-8 rips, the blade had drifted away from 90 degrees again. Readjust
and rip some more. Every 6-10 rips, the blade would need to be re-adjusted.
This issue persisted for about a week, then vanished as mysteriously as it
had appeared.

No sooner had the blade tilt issue gone away then I started getting rough
edges on ripped boards. Checked blade-to-mitre slot parallelism. It was off
by 1/100th. I adjusted it back to be within .002". Still had nasty blade
marks on ripped edges.

Double-checked blade parallelism, and it was still within .002". Checked rip
fence-to-miter slot parallelism. It was off by more than .01. Seemed odd that
after approximately a year with no problems that both the blade and fence
would get so far out of whack at the same time. I chalked it up to an
unfortunate coincidence.

Cuts were now smoother, but not what I was accustomed to. I thought perhaps
it was the blade. After a year or so of use, odds are it was getting a bit
dull. So I upgraded to a Woodworker II. Adjusted blade parallelism, adjusted
fence parallelism. Ahhh...that's more like it, silky smooth cuts again.

Well, the joy only lasted for 6-8 cuts. Grrr...check blade parallelism again.
It was off by over .01" again. Adjust the blade. Still getting rough edges.
What the...Check the fence, it's off again as well.

So, I've been chasing square set-ups ever since. I've discovered the problem
is due to excessive arbor run-out. I can easily deflect the blade by more
than .01" with my finger.

So, the 2400 will be put out to pasture and used only for construction and
remodeling projects where accuracy aren't critical. It was fun while it
lasted....
posted by: ElliotZ
04/19/07 5:11 PM
Rating 3 Stars

I've had this saw almost a year. I couldn't fit a cabinet saw in my small
shop and don't have 220V there either, so I was limited to portable and
contractor saws. I liked the saw a lot at first. And there are still things I
like about it now. I suppose it would be good if I were a contractor working
on site. But as a furniture maker, I find it's lacking. It's not a matter of
the power (I had no false illusions of it ripping 10/4 hard maple or oak).

My problem is its accuracy. The fence is pretty good, but can be knocked out
of position too easily. The biggest problem is the arbor which simply does
not stay square. This is both a safety hazard (can cause binding which can
result in kickback) and destroys your accuracy. It's fine if you're just
trying to rip to within 1/16" or so. But if you're trying to cut rabbits or
tenons with it, it really can mess them up. I've spent more time cleaning up
the tenons I cut with this table saw than it would have taken me to cut the
tenons by hand.

I have set and re-set the arbor to square the plane many times. I have
cranked the allen nuts as hard as I possibly could, but it will not stay
square. Quite frustrating.

As a result, I don't trust the saw for anything that requires real accuracy
(< 1/16") and basically avoid using it unless I have to.

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