台南人嗜甜被「妖魔化」?她揭台南怪現 - 台南
By Robert
at 2020-08-20T10:07
at 2020-08-20T10:07
Table of Contents
台南人嗜甜被「妖魔化」?她揭台南怪現象:飲食面目全非
https://udn.com/news/story/120911/4794605
2020-08-19 20:21聯合新聞網 綜合報導小吃
一說到台南美食,許多人第一時間想到的就是「甜」,網友也經常發文調侃台南食物甜到
讓人崩潰,甚至說飲料「點半糖少糖不是人喝的」,類似這種「台南人嗜甜如命」的印象
幾乎根深柢固,事實真的是如此嗎?美食作家黃婉玲日前在粉專表示,台南人好像被「妖
魔化」,愛甜愛到很變態,菜餚竟是毫無理性的甜滋味,甜得一點也不合邏輯,她更直言
,「美食之都竟因甜滋味而使之蒙羞」。
美食作家黃婉玲在粉專「黃婉玲的烹飪教室」,PO出一篇「一個台南人的吶喊」,文中提
及,自己是土生土長的台南人,祖先在台南紮根300多年,早年祖先以製糖為家業,家族
成員都愛吃甜食,「但甜食滋味婉約,甜味並非不理性重甜」。黃婉玲感慨說道,「現在
的台南小吃真的越來越甜膩,甜到我都受不了也不認識,這些小吃的原貌並非如此」。
黃婉玲表示,許多小吃的原味應該是「甘」而非「甜」,這兩者之間的滋味有著差距,甘
味做不出就索性做甜味,甜味做過頭變成膩,這一錯久了,變成台南人愛吃甜。
黃婉玲解釋,其實菜餚中要做出甘味,還得要有功夫,沒有功夫就將一大把糖直接加,這
樣的甜味太好做了,就導致「沒有理性的甜味」。
黃婉玲分享自己的經驗,有一次她到台南某飯店享用淮揚菜,師傅做出的淮揚菜處處都有
甜味,「師傅不是台南人」,她便詢問師傅為何料理都要有甜味,師傅則回應,「台南人
愛吃甜,所以什麼菜都加糖,以迎合在地人」。另外,台南還有一家米糕店的年輕老闆,
其做出的肉燥汁都要加糖,他說因為料理要有甜滋味是「入境隨俗呀!」,黃婉玲一聽嚇
壞,感嘆地說「當台南不再是台南,真是可悲的事」。
黃婉玲也表示,看到台南飲食面目全非真讓人心痛,「甜」一個字壓垮了飲食原貌。
文章曝光後,引發許多網友共鳴,紛紛留下自己的感想,「甘跟甜的差別需要學習吧,可
能太多人把網路笑話當真了」、「說出老台南人的心聲了,新店也就算了,最無奈的是有
些老店新人接手後味道也跑掉了」、「我台南人,我無糖綠,我很驕傲」、「太甜真的無
法忍受,有些火鍋的湯也很甜,在地台南人如我也覺得很膩」。
--
https://udn.com/news/story/120911/4794605
2020-08-19 20:21聯合新聞網 綜合報導小吃
一說到台南美食,許多人第一時間想到的就是「甜」,網友也經常發文調侃台南食物甜到
讓人崩潰,甚至說飲料「點半糖少糖不是人喝的」,類似這種「台南人嗜甜如命」的印象
幾乎根深柢固,事實真的是如此嗎?美食作家黃婉玲日前在粉專表示,台南人好像被「妖
魔化」,愛甜愛到很變態,菜餚竟是毫無理性的甜滋味,甜得一點也不合邏輯,她更直言
,「美食之都竟因甜滋味而使之蒙羞」。
美食作家黃婉玲在粉專「黃婉玲的烹飪教室」,PO出一篇「一個台南人的吶喊」,文中提
及,自己是土生土長的台南人,祖先在台南紮根300多年,早年祖先以製糖為家業,家族
成員都愛吃甜食,「但甜食滋味婉約,甜味並非不理性重甜」。黃婉玲感慨說道,「現在
的台南小吃真的越來越甜膩,甜到我都受不了也不認識,這些小吃的原貌並非如此」。
黃婉玲表示,許多小吃的原味應該是「甘」而非「甜」,這兩者之間的滋味有著差距,甘
味做不出就索性做甜味,甜味做過頭變成膩,這一錯久了,變成台南人愛吃甜。
黃婉玲解釋,其實菜餚中要做出甘味,還得要有功夫,沒有功夫就將一大把糖直接加,這
樣的甜味太好做了,就導致「沒有理性的甜味」。
黃婉玲分享自己的經驗,有一次她到台南某飯店享用淮揚菜,師傅做出的淮揚菜處處都有
甜味,「師傅不是台南人」,她便詢問師傅為何料理都要有甜味,師傅則回應,「台南人
愛吃甜,所以什麼菜都加糖,以迎合在地人」。另外,台南還有一家米糕店的年輕老闆,
其做出的肉燥汁都要加糖,他說因為料理要有甜滋味是「入境隨俗呀!」,黃婉玲一聽嚇
壞,感嘆地說「當台南不再是台南,真是可悲的事」。
黃婉玲也表示,看到台南飲食面目全非真讓人心痛,「甜」一個字壓垮了飲食原貌。
文章曝光後,引發許多網友共鳴,紛紛留下自己的感想,「甘跟甜的差別需要學習吧,可
能太多人把網路笑話當真了」、「說出老台南人的心聲了,新店也就算了,最無奈的是有
些老店新人接手後味道也跑掉了」、「我台南人,我無糖綠,我很驕傲」、「太甜真的無
法忍受,有些火鍋的湯也很甜,在地台南人如我也覺得很膩」。
--
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