一種非理性的美食評論 - 宜蘭
By Necoo
at 2013-06-28T04:22
at 2013-06-28T04:22
Table of Contents
今天睡不著 來胡言亂語一下好了
因為回來宜蘭沒多久,對宜蘭這一年內開新店的驚人速度非常驚訝。
常常不知道要吃什麼,就會看著宜蘭版的網路評論。
今天如果要去吃什麼東西 如果是遇到沒吃過的店家 我想我跟很多人一樣
會先上網google評論 看這家店的評價如何
也因為很多人會看這些美食/飲食方面的評論
所以才會有 美食部落客 與 愛評網 這種「產業」的興起
但是這種美食評論有「可能」會有兩種弔詭的情況出現
第一 缺乏專業
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每個人對於食物的感受不同 如何辨別其優劣
你覺得好吃 我不一定覺得好吃
如果有所評論的依據必須牽涉到味覺的專業訓練
我常覺得那些網路上的「隱姓埋名」的「路人」寫出來的評論
就不是敢本名本人亮相出來那種的,
像是胡天蘭敢跳出來說就是我「胡天蘭」推薦的
大多數的部落客都是把照片拍得美美的 然後講一些口感啦 味道啦 新鮮度啦
什麼店裡的燈光美氣氛佳啦 表面看似很專業
但是就是扯東扯西 掩蓋掉那個作者沒有專業度的一面
他/她沒辦法說出為什麼這家粉圓跟另一家粉圓吃起來不同的原因是什麼?
製程與用料差在哪裡?大多只是分享「個人感受」與「個人體會」。
第二 可能會寫一些「匿名的」業配文章
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有一些還未很有知名度的店透過這些美食部落客在網路去推薦這些店,
希望達到很好的宣傳效果。反正這些人透過網路上的匿名的「隱姓埋名」,
私底下「可能」做些我們「無法看到的」交易。
他們可能靠著網路上的人氣,業主跟部落客買廣告,
在網頁上出現任何可能的置入性行銷,透過「好吃推薦文」是常見的方式。
寫業配文基本上不是個很大的問題,
重點是透過隱姓埋名的方式加上個人感受的評論,就變成一個問題。
到頭來推薦的東西不怎樣,部落客會推拖說我又沒叫你去買去消費,
我只是分享我「個人感受」。或者說今天他/她的一個小鴨帳號弄臭了,再換個
唐老鴨的帳號重新粉墨登場,比Makiyo「重新做人」更快。
反正這些看文章的人又不知道那個部落客是誰。
除了「康熙來了」曾經請過一些願意上電視的部落客,不然我們永遠不知道那些
小鴨到底是誰。我們可能都不知道他們的「真實樣貌」。
當然不是真的要知道他們的臉長什麼樣子。
我要說的重點是要成為某領域的「評論家」沒那麼簡單,
如果是我看到一個部落客可以跨多領域,會懷疑他/她可能在亂說的。
舉個例子今天阿基師會被請去當法式料理的評審嗎?
我自己之前想去藍帶學院學做甜點,光是甜點就分初中高三階課程,每個都要通過考試。
你不懂怎麼做甜點,一些基本的東西,你怎麼評論法式甜點呢?
難道每次都分享個人感受嗎?
所以這些美食評論到底是評論,還是推薦的「介紹文」,或是匿名的業配文?
這是我讀完《快思慢想》之後,裡面的觀念拿來運用分析美食評論的一些想法。
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